How to install a pocket door.

Today's post will divert from the thread to answer a question about " how to install a pocket door."
If the pocket door is going to be installed into an existing opening where there is already a swinging door or a framed or drywalled opening we will have to widen the opening to accommodate the pocket door.
There is a pre-fab pocket door frame that you could pickup at Rona or Home Depot, I know Rona always have them in stock.They come in sizes from 24 in wide to 36 ins wide. The rough opening you will need for a 30 in wide door will be 61-1/2 ins wide by 84 ins high. The rule of the thumb is what ever the door size you will be installing the rough opening will be twice the width plus 1-1/2 ins and 84 is high.
We will first deal with installing a pocket door where there is an existing door opening in a non-load bearing partition wall. By non-load bearing I mean that the partition wall is not supporting any load such as another wall or supporting floor joists. To determine this you will have to look at the top plate of the wall you want to install the door and if it has 2 plates at the top instead of one plate you will most likely be dealing with a load bearing wall. You could also poke around at the top of the wall to see if there are any joists that is resting on the wall for support.
If the wall is non-load bearing proceed to remove the door from its hinges, to do this close the door and using a flat head screwdriver and a hammer, place the screwdriver  under the head of the hinge pin and proceed to hit the pin in an upward direction to dislodge the pin. Start with the bottom hinge and then proceed to the top hinge.When both pins are removed open the door gently to remove it from the opening.
Next remove the door casing and door jamb with a hammer and a pry bar, making sure you have safety glasses to protect your eyes.You will have to possibly remove the existing baseboard from the wall where you are going to install the door. We will be using a 30 in door for reference. Take your measuring tape and measure over 61-1/2 ins from the existing rough opening stud and mark the drywall.Take your level and draw a plumb line on the drywall 84 ins high from the floor. Next mark a line 84 ins high on the drywall on the existing rough opening stud side. Connect these two lines, check for level and adjust if necessary, then proceed to cut the drywall out from the opening , you should end up with an opening of 61-1/2 ins wide by 84 ins high. Proceed to cut the dry wall from the other side of the wall.There should now be some studs exposed , take a reciprocating saw cut the studs out, also, cut out the exposed existing bottom plate. If there is a cavity between the drywall take one of the studs that was cut out and place it between the drywall and screw it in place with drywall screws.
Following the directions that comes with the pocket door, finish assembling the frame and install it in place making sure its plumb and level. Fasten it to the rough opening studs.Remove the braces, remove the screws that came installed in the top track one at a time and replace them with a 2 ins wood screw. Follow the directions that came with the pocket door frame to install the door and the jamb on the latch side of the frame, making sure every thing is plumb.
Install the drywall over the frame using 1 in drywall screws, using any longer screws will protrude through the frame and could damage the door as it retracts into the cavity.
Install the door casing and lock set and you are ready to use your pocket door. I find that using the cylinder type lock set rather than the square ones looks better.
Hope that this helped. If you have any questions reach me at 416-885-3987 or info@fbscto.com